BMW Z4 M Coupé S54 Rod Bearings DIY Guide (e85/e86)

This is a job that probably every S54 owner dreads. I know I did. According to the Internets, my Z4 M with 88K miles was within that danger zone of catastrophic failure. And not having much insight into the previous service history or maintenance, I felt like I was driving a ticking time bomb!

So I contacted some shops in the area for quotes, and after a recommendation from Reddit I got in touch with Wing at VT Motorworks in Pleasanton. What I immediately liked about Wing was that he was very responsive to my messages and also offered me lots of advice and guidance.

After some back and forth, Wing suggested that I first get a used oil analysis even though I didn’t have any prior UOAs to reference. He said it would still be better than nothing and give me a better idea of how the bearings were doing.

So I did an oil change myself and sent the sample to Blackstone. It took about 3 weeks to get an analysis back. My sample only had about 2,400 miles on it, but the analysis showed very high lead levels (22ppm) and also higher than normal Iron. According to the report, “Iron is from steel parts, and lead is a bearing metal. These two metals together suggest poor wear at a bearing/shaft interface.”

Well, that pretty much told me everything I needed to know and I decided to get the job done asap. The question then came down to whether I would try the job myself, or have VT do it. But upon contacting Wing, I was told the next open spot was almost a month away! Normally that wouldn’t be a problem, but I had been planning a drive down to LA before they would be able to see me…

The job took me about 3 days: Day 1: Tear down subframe and components to make room. Day 2: Access and remove oil pan, swap in bearings. Day 3: Install oil pan and restore subframe and engine components.

Guides: I primarily used the FCP Euro video and bimmerfan08’s big writeup for the m3 e46. I also watched and Google’d as many videos and posts I could to try and build up my confidence. This writeup won’t be a full DIY guide, but will just be another overview with some added tips specifically about the Z4 M.

Parts: I went with BE Bearings and ARP Bolts. This is what Wing@VT uses so I just went with that. They are expensive! I had a 10% coupon from FCP Euro so I picked up most of my parts from them. I also bought the ARP Stretch Gauge (very pricey!). Here’s the parts list:

ARP Connecting Rod Bolt set – ARP 201-6102, $123.99
BE Bearings SPF1534F $399.00
BMW 10W60 Oil Change Kit $79.87
BMW Suspension Subframe Reinforcement Plate Bolt (8 pcs, $36.72)
BMW Oil Pan Cover Gasket $9.99
BMW Oil Pan Gasket $17.29
BMW Engine Oil Level Sensor Gasket $5.39
BMW Oil Dipstick O-Ring $5.49
BMW Engine Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring $7.69
Red Line Assembly Lubricant 80312 $10.49

Optional:

You may also want to change your engine mounts if yours are worn, as they are easily accessible when the subframe is dropped. Mine had already been changed recently, but I did opt to change my drive belts as part of this job.

Tools: You’ll need your standard set of metric sockets: from as small as 8mm up to 18mm, 16mm Spark plug socket, e10 and e12 Torx sockets, 4 and 6mm hex sockets/keys, torque wrench, 1/4″ and 3/8″ ratchets, 32mm socket to turn the crank, Harbor Freight engine mount, ARP Stretch Gauge, and wheel lug socket/breaker bar. For the ARP Bolts, you’ll need a 7/16″ 12-point socket.

Everything went pretty smoothly. My biggest concern was actually how to drop the subframe and access the oil pan and not how to change out the actual bearings. I wasn’t sure if there was a way to do it without draining various other fluids and/or needing some other special tools. Turns out, the way FCP did it, I didn’t need to remove the whole steering rack and kept everything on the car; it just swung down enough to squeeze the pan out and nothing else had to be drained, etc. This is a lot easier and isn’t as messy!

The first step is to release the wheel lugs so you can then remove the wheels for more clearance. I used my QuickJack 5000TL on the highest setting, but you can use a jack and stands as well.

Remove the plastic skid plate which is held with 8mm screws up front and the sides, and T30 Torx screws on the back. The reinforcement plate behind it is held by 16mm bolts; there are 8 of them. These are “one-time” use, so I bought a set to replace them when I was done.

Drain the oil. The oil drain bolt is a 6mm hex. Also loosen the filter, open the oil filler cap, and remove the dipstick to allow the oil to drain fully.

Remove the spark plugs. Supposedly this helps when turning the engine over, so I took them out. Just remove the cosmetic cover (6x 10mm bolts), then pop out the plugs. There are lots of Youtube videos on how to do this so I won’t go over it here. Plug the exposed holes to prevent anything from getting dropped inside. Organize the coils and plugs so you can put them back in order:

I then attached the Harbor Freight engine support bar ($80). This is a little tricky on the Z4, as the edges of the fenders are quite thin as compared to the e46. I tried to place the support on a diagonal so that it was better supported underneath the footing areas, but the design of the bar and feet don’t allow for much rotation to align over the lifting point on the engine.

In the end, I found the best position was inline with the lifting point, so that the bar foot was just behind a dimple in the fender edge. The idea was that the dimple would keep the feet from sliding forward. Make sure the feet aren’t tilted in any way and are square with the bar. Attach the lifting hook and start tightening it to hold the weight of the engine. Make sure the bar’s feet are secure and tight as you proceed. While it looks a little sketchy, the bar had no issues supporting the weight and nothing slipped. Obviously this would be catastrophic if it did, so double check everything is secure before moving back down below!

In the FCP video and writeup I used, they begin by removing the fan/shroud and air box for better access. On the Z4 M you don’t need to remove anything up top; you can access the crank pulley, belts, and pumps from underneath the car pretty easily as there is plenty of room:

Take apart the subframe and steering components. Follow along in the FCP video to unbolt the control arms from the frame rails (16mm socket), the engine mount bolts (16mm socket), the sway bar bolts (13mm socket). Leave the four 18mm subframe to frame bolts attached for now, but you can loosen them.

On the Z4 M, the headlight level sensor is attached to the right control arm by a 13mm(?) nut. Once removed, pull the sensor out of the control arm. You also need to disconnect the level sensor wiring harness as shown in the FCP video.

Use an E10 Torx socket to unbolt the steering column from the coupler. This is located on the driver’s side. I marked mine, but it wasn’t necessary as it can only go back in one way. Once it is removed, push the telescoping steering column up and into itself to detach the two pieces.

Place a jack under the subframe to support it. I used a piece of 4×4 post. Once in place, you can unbolt the 4 remaining subframe bolts. Slowly release the jack in small increments. The engine will begin to be supported by the bar up top, so make sure everything is secure and nothing is slipping!

Once the subframe is clear of any protruding bolts, the subframe will be free and you can remove the jack. The engine is now fully supported by the bar.

Next, detach the power steering hose bracket from the subframe. This will allow you to move the hoses out of the way when dropping the oil pan later. Use an 8mm hex in the tension pulley and turn it clockwise to relieve tension from the drive tension pulley and slip off the drive belt from the power steering pump. Then remove the power steering pump: there are two 13mm bolts in the front of the pump, and another shorter 13mm bolt in between the hoses that secures the pump to the pan. The FCP video shows the removal process.

Continue to follow along with the FCP video to detach the oil level sensor, dipstick tube, etc. Basically, detach anything that is connected to the oil pan so that it can be removed.

This is optional, but I also removed the oil pan cover to drain some additional oil. Removing the cone-shaped aerator may also help with the pan removal.

Remove the oil pan: There are 25 10mm bolts securing the pan that need to be removed. 20 of the bolts are 20mm long, but there are two long 95mm bolts that attach to the very rear of the pan, plus 3 slightly longer 25mm bolts. Be sure to keep them organized. I marked the holes on the pan with a Sharpie for the three 25mm bolts so I could remember where they go.

Once the bolts are removed, grab the end of the pan and rock it to break it free of the gasket seal. You’ll then need to pull it down and backwards, bending the power steering hoses a bit to squeeze it out. Nice, you did it!

Surprisingly, my pan was VERY clean. Almost no sludge or burnt spots at all. The oil pump wheel was also pristine. Hopefully this means the previous owner(s) did frequent oil changes. I did see some signs of oil leakage on the front-driver’s side of the pan, as evidenced by burnt oil stains there.

Follow the FCP video to remove the oil return and suction tubes. Then remove the pump disc with a 17mm socket. Note: It’s reverse threaded! Once the disc is out, you also need to remove the oil pump which is held on by three 6mm hex bolts. The FCP video skips this part, but you can refer to the writeup for detailed instructions.

Replace the Rod Bearings: The part you’ve been waiting for! The FCP video does a great walkthrough on how to do this, so I would just review it a few times and just go for it. Full disclosure, I did NOT do the plastigauge step as some sources I’ve read say that the bearings are a maintenance item and simply replacing them with oem spec shells should not have clearance issues. That said, I haven’t actually seen a writeup or video that actually explains what you would do if the clearance was out of spec…

This is where the ARP Stretch Gauge comes in. Check out this video from ShopLifeTV on how to use it to obtain the correct torque.

Here are my removed bearings:

TBH, the removed bearings didn’t look too bad to me, based on others I have seen online. Most of the wear was in the tips of the bearings which I believe is pretty common. I did see a couple spots with some copper, but many still had the original coating intact. In fact, I have reason to believe they might have been done before, as the crank caps had what appeared to be a white-yellow dot mark on each one, which could indicate someone marked them as they were replaced. Then again, the Blackstone analysis still showed high lead and iron, so there’s that.

Installation is reverse of removal…. (don’t you hate that?)

In all seriousness, refer to the FCP video and the writeup for exact torque specs when reassembling everything. Just take your time and double check everything.

Some tips for next time (if ever) would be to:

  1. Applying assembly lube to the top bearing: One issue I had when changing the bearings was applying assembly lube to the top bearing. The Permatex lube I used was too viscous and it was impossible to apply to the top bearing and not have it just drip off when upside down. Maybe a thicker assembly paste (Redline or LiquiMoly?) would have worked better. One tip is to apply lube liberally to a removed bearing, then place it onto the rod surface and spin it around to fully coat it.
  2. When reinstalling the pan, make sure the dipstick tube gets inserted as the pan is being installed. Mine didn’t, and it was pretty time consuming to remove the tube from the top side and detach it from its anchors and get it threaded in from above.
  3. Remove the oil pan aerator and install it AFTER the pan is reinstalled, as it is much easier to guide the oil tube into the cone aerator once the pan is back in place.
  4. As you remove bolts during disassembly, put them onto some paper or bags and mark them with the part they came from and the size as well as the torque spec if you can. So when you are reattaching everything, you can just look at that and grab the correct socket size right away. Big time saver.
  5. Lastly, getting the control arms back on was maybe the most difficult part of the process for me. It’s VERY easy to cross thread the bolts here, so make sure you get the alignment dowels seated and bolts hand started before cranking them down. I crossed one of my bolts and was the only issue I had in an otherwise problem-free job. Luckily I was able to retap it and get the bolt to the 59nm torque spec.

Finish off the job with the standard oil change. Bill has a great DIY oil change guide that’s easy to follow.

Cross your fingers and start it up! You got this!

Break-in period. Opinions are mixed on this. Again, as it is considered a maintenance item, some say no break-in period is required, while others say keep your driving habits moderate (no redlining) for 500-1000 miles, then perform an oil change. Personally, I think I’ll use my road trip as my break-in period, but not shy away from any spirited driving should the opportunity present itself!

Custom BMW Z4 M Coupe bike rack hitch receiver (e85/e86)

First of all, a BIG Thank You to u/Michael9218 over at zpost.com. It was his hitch solution that looked the most simple and robust to me, and the one which I modeled mine after. His solution also places the hitch higher off the ground than others I have seen, so less chance of bottoming. The other nice thing about this mod is that you can remove it and simply replace the lower grille to go back to stock if you ever need to. The grille part appears to still be readily available and runs about $75.

I used the same receiver tubing he used from eTtrailer, and will pair the hitch with a 1up Quik Rack to carry around my mountain-bike-shaped golf clubs! Unlike some other racks, the 1up rack doesn’t rely on a hitch pin to hold the rack in place – which is necessary for this solution – and is also one of the lightest racks around at less than 30lbs.

Here’s how I made mine:

First, I found the center of the grille, then measured slightly wider than 1-5/8” for the cut (the receiver tube is 1-5/8″ wide). I used a Dremel cutting tool to cut the sides of the grille hexes, then a hacksaw blade (by itself) to cut the top and bottom free. The masking tape was placed to protect the paint while using the hacksaw. I also had to shave off the bottom of the grille using a utility knife to be flush with the bumper plastic to fit the receiver tube as it was be pretty tight vertically. There’s a good amount of plastic material there, so if you only cut away what you need, the grille will still be intact and one piece.

I then inserted the receiver tube to gauge where it would meet the supporting beam and used a level to position it. I had to fold the heat shields on each side of the charcoal canister out of the way, and also remove the black rectangular brace that holds the skid plate (not pictured) to get enough room in there.

Next, I started taking some measurements. I marked the position of the front brace on the receiver tube and also took some measurements at the rear of the tube to determine the placement of the rear braces.

I then realized I had this thing called a 3D printer(!), and I could model the whole thing up at 1:1 scale to do a proper test fitting. 15 HOURS later…the printer was done! (I went a bit overboard on the supports!)

A little super glue and my mock up was ready for a test fitting!

To fit the hitch into the space, I had to disconnect the lower hose of the charcoal canister, then angle the receiver tube up and into the bumper grille hole (you’ll need to bend/push out the bumper a bit to do this, but it is very flexible), then pivot the hitch back up and around the support beam, making sure the hitch’s front brace is in front of the rear bumper plate.

Once the dummy hitch was in place, I leveled it, took some final measurements, and spec’d it all up for my metal fabricator. I was initially going to try and weld this myself, but having had no prior experience, I chickened out at the last minute (after buying everything from HarborFreight!) and took it to a local metal shop. They were pretty psyched to get a life-size model!

2 weeks later and it was done!

I used 1/4″ plate for the front brace (likely overkill), and the rear braces are milled to get the correct thickness – and more importantly – the distance between the two arms that I wanted. The idea was to have them fit snugly around the support beam, and to eliminate any side-to-side play once they were bolted together.

I then primed and painted the hitch:

Fitting was the same as with the dummy hitch: Angle in the receiver tube into the grille hole first, then bend the bumper out so you can squeeze the front brace in front of the bumper plate, then slide the rear arms up and around the support beam, in between the hoses of the charcoal canister.

I then inserted (and glued in place) a small piece of composite shim above the rear of the receiver tube and leveled the hitch. The shim allows for slight adjustment of the forward position as well as angle of the hitch. It also removes any vertical play from the rear of the hitch, while also relieving any unnecessary stress to the support beam at that contact point (I also slightly filed down the top edge of the rear tube to reduce the sharpness of this contact point).

I used an M8x1.0x70mm bolt and a couple flat washers above the rear arms, which secured the arms tightly around the support beam to keep it all in place. One more level check.

In order to install the front brace bolts, you need to remove the rear bumper. This is surprisingly easy and there is a good write up on how to do this at Pelican. Note: I did find that removing the rear wheels makes the access to the wheel well trim fasteners a lot easier.

Once removed, I checked the level of the hitch one more time to make sure it didn’t get nudged while taking off the bumper cover, then used a punch to mark the drill points in the steel bumper plate. I started with a small 2mm bit, then a 4, 6, and finally 8mm bit.

I used a pair of M8x1.25x35mm bolts, with steel washers on each side, and nylon locknuts. The final result is a very solidly-mounted hitch with no play whatsoever.

Replace the bumper (don’t forget to reconnect the lights!) and the job is done!

Here’s how it looks with the 1up Quik Rack installed.

SIM Unlock hack for any Google Pixel phone (no root)

This hack will SIM unlock the physical SIM slot in Google Pixel phones. If your Pixel is locked to a cellular carrier, this hack will circumvent the network lock and allow you to use your phone with the carrier of your choice.

Note: I do not take any credit for this hack. It was discovered over at XDA, but the information is a bit discombobulated and spread across dozens of pages, so here it is in a concise and easy to follow process.

How to do it

1. Download the latest Netguard APK from github and copy the apk onto a USB flash drive: https://github.com/M66B/NetGuard/releases
2. Remove the SIM card from your phone. Factory Reset your pixel to erase everything.
3. When setting up the Pixel once it reboots, DO NOT connect to WiFi or insert any SIM card. Skip through the setup wizard so you can start using your Pixel; you can set up everything you need to later.
4. Use the included QuickConnect USB-C adapter in your Pixel box to connect your USB drive to the Pixel.
5. Navigate to the Files app, and locate your USB drive. Install the Netguard apk (you will need to allow permissions for the Files app to install).
6. Launch the Netguard app. Turn ON Netguard by toggling the switch next to the NetGuard logo on the app’s homescreen (top-left). Then, in the app’s Settings > Advanced Settings, turn ON Manage System Apps
7. Return to the Netguard Homescreen. Locate the following apps and tap the Wifi and Cellular icon next to each, to DISABLE them (will appear Red once disabled):

Carrier Setup (there are 2 of these)
Device Setup

8. Disable battery optimization for Netguard. Open the Pixel Settings > Apps > See all Apps > Netguard > App battery usage. Select Unrestricted.
9. Further restrict system apps from the Internet: Open the Pixel Settings > Apps > See all Apps. Select the Kabob menu (3 dots) and select Show System.

Find the following apps and under Mobile data & Wifi for each of them, deselect (turn off) Background Data:

Carrier Setup (x2)
Device Setup

9. You can now connect to your Wifi network and insert any SIM card. Note: the eSIM will still be locked to the original carrier only. After a few minutes of being connected to Wifi, the Pixel Setup wizard will prompt you to set up your new Pixel, and you can then restore from another device or cloud backup.

Some notes:

The unlock will continue to work after reboots and monthly security and Android system updates (I’m using the latest Android 14 now). But if you ever do a Factory Reset, you will lose the unlock and have to repeat the process.

I’ve used this method on several locked pixels and all are still using other carriers than they were locked to. Also, it only has works on Pixels.

Also, I would recommend NOT updating Netguard once it is up and running and successfully blocking network requests from the aforementioned system apps. I haven’t, and it continues to work just fine. The reason is I didn’t want to risk Netguard lapsing during an update and letting the system apps through and locking the phone.

PALM Phone PVG100 replacement sim tray w/ Warranty

Palm Phone PVG100 Replacement SIM Tray

  • 3D printed SIM tray for the Palm Phone model PVG100.
  • Printed on an 8K SLA printer using ABS-like Tough resins for durability.
  • Note: This is an extremely thin part (as thin as 0.69mm in places!). While it will serve its intended purpose perfectly, it is NOT recommended if you are the kind of user that swaps SIM cards on a daily basis! Use it with care and it will likely last you the life of your beloved Palm Phone.
  • All trays are fully-tested for fit and functionality before shipping.
  • Improved, easier ejection methods vs the original tray (see below)
  • Does NOT provide waterproof sealing
  • a SIM Eject tool is included 
  • FREE shipping in USA!
  • 1 YEAR replacement warranty! If it breaks, send me a photo of the broken tray along with your order details and I will send you a replacement free of charge.

This tray was modeled and designed from an original Palm Phone sim tray. The design was refined over many, many iterations and offers two easy and robust methods for removal: 

Pry Method

Pull Method

Shipping and Handling

  • FREE in the USA. Ships within 24 hours.
  • Mailed in a plain envelope. NO TRACKING!
  • International shipping is + $3 USD. For multiple quantity orders I will refund additional shipping fees as I can mail up to 3 per envelope. Please allow 2-3 weeks for International delivery. No tracking!
Shipping Location

Back up photos from any device to Google Photos in Original Quality (for free)

By now, it may be common knowledge that you can use an original c.2016 Google Pixel to back up your photos and videos to Google Photos in Original Quality for free. While there are several posts and tutorials on how to set this up, in practice I found that some notable points were missing from them, namely how to deal with deleting the photos from your primary device once they were backed up from the Pixel. I’m an Android user so this is written primarily from that perspective.

Here’s how to sync/delete the backed up photos from your primary device and the backup pixel [Android]:

1. Install Resilio Sync on both devices. On the Primary device, Create Folder and select your Camera folder, located in /DCIM/Camera

Once created, tap the “i” icon to edit the settings for the new folder you created. Deselect “Selective Sync” if it is enabled. Then tap the gear icon and change the Permissions setting to “Read & Write”.

2. On the primary device, next to the Share setting is a QR button. Tap it to display the QR code for the Camera folder you just set up. On the Pixel 1, tap “Scan QR Code” and scan the QR code to link the two devices.

3. In the Google Photos app of the Primary device, turn off Backup. Then take a few photos with the primary device to test the sync.

4. On the backup Pixel 1, in the Resilo app, you should see the new photos being sync’d.

5. In Google Photos on the Pixel 1, be sure that Backup is enabled and that your Camera folder is selected to Backup. you should see the phots being uploaded to your Google account.

And finally, here’s how to deal with removing the backed up photos from your primary device:

6. After the photos are backed up, you can tap the ‘Free Up Space’ function to delete the images that have now been backed up. After a few moments, you will see that the images on the primary devcie have been deleted from the Sync folder.

Some notes and observations:

– You can quit Resilio Sync on the primary device and start it up as needed to sync to the backup pixel.

– Unless you are taking photos and need to back up constantly, you don’t need to have the backup Pixel plugged in and On at all times. Just boot it up and sync as needed.

– You can set up multiple devices to sync to the Pixel 1, like an iPad or iPhone as well. Resilio is available on iOS devices, too.

– The backup Pixel doesn’t seem to display all of the available directories that contain media for some reason. I have also seen the sync directory disappear on occasion, but once I start a sync and then relaunch Google Photos, it seems to pick it back up again.

Clearing Sunroof Drains on 2008-2012 Toyota Highlander

Here’s a quick fix for the super-annoying problem of the Highlander’s sunroof drains clogging and flooding your footwells!

This assumes that you have already done your best to clear the drains from the sunroof drains itself. there are lots of videos and posts online on how to approach this. What I did was just open the sunroof and fish a long and thin wire cable through each drain hole. They are located in the front corners of the sunroof, about the diameter of a pencil. The rear drainage holes aren’t really accessible from the sunroof, but can be cleared from underneath the car just behind the wheel wells (you’ll need to remove the plastic covering to access the drain tubes).

Here’s a few pics of how I cleared the main drain location. You’ll need to pull back the carpeting and cable housings to get better access. I used a combination of vigorously poking a thin cable through the bolt holes and also using a large syringe with flexible tubing to flush it out. Eventually I was able to get the main drain cleared.

To clear the additional drains, what you want to do is get under the car and locate the exit holes. I used a thin bottle brush (like the kind used to clean those stainless steel straws). Just shove it in each hole and twirl it back and forth to clear the exit holes out. Hopefully, you will see a bunch of water come out if your drain is currently full of standing water.

There are 3 exit holes on each side. Here are the approximate locations. You are looking for an obvious little bump along the pinch welds:

Hopefully your problems will be solved once you have cleared the exit holes! Depending on how level your car is, you may not see water drain out of each hole.

Now, get out your wet-vac and suck up as much water as you can. Then remove the floor mats to help the floor dry out. I used a space heater on a low setting and checked on it throughout the day.

2019 Pivot Mach 5.5 Large (post in progress)

I recently came across a pretty good deal on ebay for this Pivot Mach 5.5 frame and snagged it. It was sort of a shoot first, figure it out later sort of impulse bid, but 2 days later it showed up on my doorstep!

The Mach 5.5 has also been on my shortlist, so it was hard to pass up. The thing that was different about this frame from all of my other bikes is that it is a Large sized frame, and I’ve only ridden Mediums in the past. So it was sort of a leap for me to try a size up for the first time ever.

Before I swapped over the parts from my Spectral, I tried to get an idea of what the longer bike would feel like (and look like):

Pivot Cycles™ Mach 5.5 Red Satin Touch Up Paint Pen

If you ride a Satin Red Pivot Mach 5.5, and have some battle scars, I have a limited quantity of factory touch up paint pens available for sale.

Perfect Match Custom Acrylic Enamel paint pen custom mixed by MyPerfectColor – Brand New and never used!

Retails for $39.77 at MyPerfectColor.com – Buy here and save!

Touch Up paint is not available through Pivot! MyPerfectColor is Pivot’s recommended source. Limited quantity batch mixed on Feb 9, 2021 (shelf life of 18 months).
Includes prep and application instructions.

Get yours while they are available! SOLD OUT!

Free shipping in USA by USPS First Class with Tracking. Ships within 1 business day.

Pivot Mach 5.5 Paint Pen - Red

Pivot Mach 5.5 Paint Pen – Red

$20.00

SOLD OUT!

1993 GT Zasker LE (90’s Ridiculous Build)

This was my first “real” mountain bike.

TL;DR, I spent one summer back home after getting kicked out of college my freshman year for poor grades, so I got a job at a small bike shop and helped out as a sales/mechanic/whatever.

The shop sold GT, so I splurged and picked up this Zaskar LE frame, along with that omg-oh-so-sweet RockShox Mag 21 SL Ti fork with my employee discount.

Lots of purple-anno goodies in the build. Here’s what I can pick out from the photos:

  • GT Zaskar LE frame (16″)
  • RockShox Mag 21 SL Ti fork (63 or 80mm, can’t remember), with ODI clear stanchion booties
  • Selle Italia Flite saddle w/Ti rails and perforated leather(!)
  • Suntour XC-Pro MicroDrive crankset 175mm
  • Ringlé Moby seatpost
  • Ringlé water bottle cage
  • Mavic 217(?) rims with Wheelsmith DB spokes (I built these myself!)
  • Ringlé SuperBubba front hub, MachineTech rear (silent roller clutch!)
  • Continental XC tires (can’t remeber the model, but they were superlight and a bit skinny)
  • ControlTech stem
  • Syncros bar ends
  • Dia-Compe 987 brakeset
  • XTR rapid-fire shifters/levers

My project wishlist is to source all of these parts and rebuild this bike! I’ll probably end up spending 10x for these parts today. Stay tuned!